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Saturday, October 31, 2009

Happy Halloween!

Growing up, Halloween was one of our favorite holidays. Not only did we get to go trick-or-treating, my parents would make donuts! Well, spudnuts, really, made with mashed potatoes in the dough. These are traditional yeast-raised, deep-fried goodies, with a simple powdered-sugar glaze. Tonight I made a double batch, 7 dozen plus a few using the smaller of my two cutters, and we ended the evening with just five left. Several bags were delivered to friends and neighbors, and adults chaperoning trick-or-treaters also got lucky.

I don't use a deep-fat fryer or a cast-iron dutch oven to fry my donuts. I use the same tool my parents used back in the 1970s: an electric frying pan. Mine is bigger than theirs was, which speeds the process some, but not too much--it's still crucial to let the oil come back up to temperature after every panful. This built-in refractory period means adding another kitchen worker doesn't speed stuff up much, if at all.
adapted from a recipe submitted to the Salem Fourth Ward cookbook, Garden of Eatin', by Pat Youngberg

2 eggs, beaten slightly
1/2 C cooled mashed potatoes
1/2 C potato water
1 C scalded milk
1/2 C sugar
1/2 C light corn syrup
1/2 C unsalted butter, softened
2 t salt
3 T yeast, dissolved in 1/4 C warm water
6 C flour, plus more for kneading and rolling

1 lb powdered sugar
1/2 C boiling water

Mix ingredients to make a soft, sticky dough. Turn dough into a bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and let sit in a warm-ish spot (I use my oven with just the light on) for two hours (don't let it go too much longer--I couldn't get back to mine for nearly an extra hour, and the dough had overflowed the bowl onto the baking stone and floor of the oven!). Knead just a little, adding flour to make the dough less sticky and workable, then roll 1/2 inch thick. Cut with a donut cutter, and put cut donuts on cookie sheets lined with waxed paper, with just a little space between, saving and rerolling the holes and other dough scraps. Let rise until doubled, just about an hour (again, not longer--those last few donuts pictured above are misshapen because the longer they rise, the stickier they get, and the harder it is to get them off the waxed paper). A half-hour before the first ones will be ready to fry, start heating the oil in your electric frying pan, with the temperature set to halfway between 350 and 375 (this helps ensure that the temperature doesn't drop much below 350; at temperatures below 350, the donuts absorb oil and turn greasy and heavy). Measure powdered sugar in a flat-bottomed bowl, and put measuring cup with water in microwave ready to heat. Arrange cooling racks over waxed paper on table for glazed donuts.

When oil is hot and donuts have risen, start frying them. Gently place dough into oil, taking care not to overfill pan (in my extra-large frying pan, I try not to do more than about 10 at a time). Turn (I use a dinner fork) when bottom side is deep golden to fry on second side. In the mean time, heat water in microwave and whisk into powdered sugar to make a smooth glaze. It should be about the consistency of olive oil. As donuts finish cooking, lift them out of pan, let some oil drip off, then place on brown paper bags or paper towels to soak up grease. When they're all out of the oil, drop one at a time into the bowl of glaze, swirling around and then flipping (I use a bamboo skewer) to get a nice coating. Lift donut with skewer in the center hole and let some glaze drip back into bowl, then place on cooling rack. Check to make sure oil has come back up to temperature while you were glazing, and then repeat until all donuts are fried and glazed.

When you are all done and the oil is cooled down to just warm, strain it (using a coffee filter or a couple of paper towels) back into its original jug and put it in the fridge. It can be used a few more times if you have another frying project within three months (latkes, anyone?), otherwise take it to be recycled into biodiesel (here in Portland you can take it to the Metro transfer station, if you don't have a regular relationship with a biodiesel processor).

Note: Do not eat the dough while cutting out the donuts. Trust me when I say you will be sorry.

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Blogger Swizzies said...

Seriously. Don't you want to come visit and make me those spudnuts???? :-P'''

November 1, 2009 at 3:51 AM  
Blogger Swizzies said...

Hey, where did your blogroll go?? I always used yours as the link home...

November 1, 2009 at 3:53 AM  
Blogger ks said...

Hi there. I found your blog via WIMFD and I really enjoy your recipes, even though I don't know you. I have not heard of spudnuts since I was a kid in Ogden, Utah. Do you think they might be a Mormon recipe, per chance? Thanks for an amusing trip down memory lane.

November 24, 2009 at 5:31 AM  
Blogger janeannechovy said...

Oh, yes, indeed, ks. Did you catch the note above where I said the recipe came from my ward cookbook? ;)

November 24, 2009 at 7:58 AM  
Blogger Jen said...

Here is the recipe for whole wheat rolls, JaneAnne. For some reason I can't get it to post to facebook! So, I'm hijacking your blog. They are tasty and good for you (though I can't take responsibility for what you slather on them!) :D

Sheryl Halls' 100% whole wheat rolls (by hand or bosch mixer)
3 C. water
1/3 c. honey
3 Tbsp. yeast
Whisk the above ingredients and let rest 5-10 minutes or until frothy.
In the meantime, in a small bowl whisk together
2 eggs
1 Tbsp. salt
1/3 c. oil (I use expeller pressed grapeseed or canola oil)
Combine frothy yeast mixture with egg mixture in a LARGE bowl or mixer. Whisk or beat until well blended.
6-8 Cups Whole Wheat flour (fresh milled best). You may add vital wheat gluten at this time - Bob's Red Mill makes a good one - instructions for ratios are on package. (*Jen's Note: I didn't have gluten so I substituted one cup of white bread flour for a cup of wheat.)
Mix: For approximately 5-10 minutes or until an elastic dough has formed. should change from a dull to a glossy color. The dough will be sticky - remember, we are looking for "light" wheat rolls. After mixing, cover and let rise for 20 minutes. Divide into four even portions. Roll out into a circle, cut into 8 triangles (like a pizza) and roll, starting with the largest end. Place on a lightly greased cookie sheet with enough space to rise double. Let rise until double in size.
Bake 350 degrees for 13-15 minutes or until golden brown on top.

November 25, 2009 at 6:25 PM  
Blogger sasquatch said...

Thanks for the recipe, JaneAnne. I used to see the "SpudNut" shops when I was a kid, which shows how old I am.
And I was baptized in the Salem 4th, ward, double-cool!

November 28, 2009 at 9:43 AM  

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